🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.